Bijou

The menu changes often as Saint Louis works through ideas, so the daily fish, perhaps a white sea bass, is worth asking about first. Steak frites, a duck caramelle pasta and diver scallops with tobiko have all appeared among the mains, with Miyagi oysters and house-made potato chips with onion dip to start. Desserts stay in the French register, from a praline millefeuille to a chocolate au lait. The dining room is light and neutral around a chic full bar, where the French-inspired cocktail list includes a rye-based Boulevardier and the Golden Hour, made with tequila, amaretto, carrot juice and horchata. The wine list pairs French and California bottles. Happy hour opens the evening at 4, dinner follows at 5, and on Friday and Saturday the bar stays open late.