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read the ground

where the terroir changes its mind

They arrived with cuttings from France and no real idea what this ground would do with them. A century and a half of guessing later, the county reads in nineteen appellations. An appellation is a line drawn where the ground starts behaving differently — a fog gap, a bench of gravel, an extra hour of afternoon sun. Pick one, and the wineries inside it start to make sense together.