Tony Najiola, in chef's whites, is a fixture at this downtown Petaluma restaurant, where a wood-fired oven bakes the morning bread and the evening pizzas. Pork from his own Muleheart Farm turns up across the menu, beside slow-cooked Angus short ribs, a fungi pizza with fontina, burrata and Meyer lemon pudding cake. Dinner nightly.













Central Market has anchored downtown Petaluma's dining scene since 2003, when chef-owner Tony Najiola opened it in the 1918 Maclay building on Petaluma Boulevard North. The room is open and high-ceilinged, with full views of the wood-fired oven and the line, and the kitchen cooks rustic California-Mediterranean food from scratch, including the ciabatta and baguettes baked in that oven each morning. Najiola, a constant presence in the dining room in his chef's coat, built the restaurant around seasonal, farm-to-table cooking, and it has kept that course for more than two decades. Petaluma's historic downtown sits right outside, and the same chef has run the room since the start, with regulars who have been coming nearly as long.

Tony Najiola cooked as a chef at Ernie's in San Francisco and at Ravenswood Winery before opening Central Market in 2003. He still runs its kitchen and its dining room, where he works the floor in his chef's coat, and he supplies the restaurant with heritage pork and produce from Muleheart Farm in Petaluma.