Downtown Barbecue

The smoker sets the menu. Beyond the headline meats come competition-style Memphis ribs, a house hot link and smoked Cajun chicken, plus Memphis wings at lunch. Groups should look at the Pitmaster Platter, which feeds four with pickles, sides and bread, and still leave room for a round of burnt ends chili. The sides are made to hold their own, with twice-baked potatoes, tallow fries and mac and cheese among them. The style borrows from Texas, Memphis and the Carolinas rather than pledging itself to one tradition. Come early for a beer and a few plates at the bar, or at dinner with friends, and order generously to share, since the platters are built for passing around the table.