John Ash & Co.

The dining room serves breakfast and lunch on weekdays, brunch on weekends and dinner every day, under executive chef Forest Kellogg, who leads a reimagined farm-to-table menu. Recent dinner menus have included Hog Island oysters and a pork chop, and a late-summer salad of stone fruit and tomato. The wine list is the deep end of the house: Sonoma County throughout, with special depth in the Russian River Valley and room for half bottles and large formats, and Wine Spectator and Wine Enthusiast have both recognized it. Indoor and outdoor tables both look toward the vineyards, private rooms open onto vineyard or garden views, and reservations are encouraged. Business casual dress suits the room.