Underwood Bar and Bistro

Underwood Bar and Bistro has been part of Graton's small downtown since 2001, when chef Matthew Greenbaum and his partner Sally Spittles opened it on Graton Road, directly across the street from the Willow Wood Market Cafe that Greenbaum had launched in 1995. Their aim was a cozy culinary home away from home, and the room still delivers, with a bistro-style bar at its heart and a mood the opening-year press called dark, swanky and sexy. Graton itself was once a rough little apple cannery town; today it is a West County crossroads between Sebastopol, Occidental and Santa Rosa, and Underwood is where winemakers, cellar crews and neighbors gather after work. Its long hours, from lunch through late evening, made it a favorite of night owls, and twenty-five years on, many of its regulars have been coming nearly as long.